![]() ![]() Notably, this cable’s 18-month warranty is the best coverage length we’ve seen in this category, and that should give you plenty of time to test the cable out with your devices and decide whether it works properly for you. The housings attaching the plugs to the main body of the cable aren’t as robust as those of some other Anker cables, but they seem sturdy and roomy enough to let you get a firm grasp. When you use it with non-Thunderbolt USB-C devices, it functions as a USB-C cable that supports 100 W charging and USB 3.1 Gen 2 data-transfer speeds. It’s Thunderbolt 3 capable, so although it looks like any other USB-C–to–USB-C cable (aside from the Thunderbolt logo on each end), it can transfer data up to four times faster (40 Gbps) between supported devices. Rated for 100 W charging, the Anker USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Cable can charge a 16-inch MacBook Pro or any high-powered laptop. Why you might prefer it: This cable could be considered the “professional” pick, likely to be overkill in most homes. Each has different capabilities and limitations in charging power and speed (measured in watts, W) and data-transfer speed between devices (measured in megabits per second, Mbps, or gigabits per second, Gbps). ![]() Micro-USB and Mini-USB can provide only regular charging regardless of a USB-A or USB-C connection. Apple’s Lightning ports can use regular 12-watt charging with a USB-A cable and faster charging via USB-C. We’ve tested dozens of cables and adapters to help you find the right ones for your needs without overspending.Ī quick primer on USB specifications for those living in blissful oblivion: While ordinary USB-A ports are limited to just 12 watts of charging power, USB-C ports can provide 18 watts of fast-charging power to phones and, more rarely, up to 240 watts to laptops (depending on the cable and device you plug into them). Unfortunately, when it comes to USB-C, even cables that look identical can behave very differently-for instance, a cable that charges your phone at top speed might be sluggish at transferring music files, or vice versa. Oh and also, don't bother removing the board for this repair - takes you at least twice as long and more risky.If you have a device with a USB-C port-such as most laptops, tablets, game consoles, or phones, including the latest iPhones-you need a cable to charge it and to transfer data to and from other devices. If all else fails, probably a faulty part. Maybe test the old mic again, if that one works take a close look at the new part's mic. Having fixed these things, I got mine working. The rubber housing for the mic should also be installed correctly for clear sound. There also was some sort of rubber/glue type of stuff on the mic - compared to the old mic, it was almost twice as thick, so I removed the sticky stuff (probably just double-sided tape) just to be sure (I now see a clear hole in the middle of the new part). It fell off when removing the loudspeaker. I think I might have had the loudspeaker bottom-right corner washer placed incorrectly. From the bottom left corner under the headphone jack to above the loudspeaker, on the opposite corner of the headphone jack. Also had similar problems, tried a few things at once and I got the mic working: ![]()
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